13th - 19th February 2011
.........in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, on the Trail of the Lonesome Pie..eeeeeeeen......!
Sorry ( to those few who read this rubbish ) for the slight hiatus since leaving the 'Big Lemon', or whatever it's called, and arriving in the Confederate State of Virginia. I was met by an ex-army friend who entertained me so well that I have scarcely had time, or been sober enough, to fire up the old computer.
I left from Penn' Station ( under Madison Square Gardens ) on the Amtrak train to Washington DC ( 3.5hrs ). Very efficient and simple internet system to get tickets for these rail journeys. Curious trains; the carriages are made out of 'wriggley tin'. Much more space inside than the British cattle trucks ( I suppose they cater for a 'different sized' human than elsewhere ), but the food served at the buffet is both expensive and indescribably awful. Also, I don't know who built the railway lines, presumably drunken Chinese navvies, because the ride you get is seriously bone-shaking. It's almost impossible to read a book ( or, fantastic bit of kit, Kindle ), and don't even think of writing. The beer is foul and watery, and most of the stuff I tried to drink ended up over the fat 'Hispanic' lady overflowing in the seat next to me. She didn't appear to notice. She was a large land-mass.
Left: 'Wriggly Tin' Amtrak train
Right: Penn' Station/ Madison Square Gardens
We passed through 'New Joisey', which was rather desolate; stations like Liberty International, Metropark and snow and ice covered dirty industrial wasteland. Through the dismal township of Trenton which, on a large signboard, boasted 'Trenton makes...the World takes'. I think it has now all been took.
On past Philadelphia which looked pretty grotty ( and I was subsequently told that 'grotty' was only the best parts of the town ), Wilmington, over the end of Chesapeake Bay, Baltimore and into Washington.
Fantastic station at Washington ( these US stations all appear to be magnificent).
Picked up by aforementioned ex-army friend, K, and driven in his frightfully smart Merc to his Farm, at Flint Hill, about 60 miles SW in Rappahannick County. Rappahannick boasts of having absolutely no traffic lights. It is true, and the system works marvellously. Another lesson to be learnt here, I feel. So much space, and glorious hilly wooded countryside and the Blue Ridge mountains did look a hazy sort of blue. This is all part of the Shenandoah National Park. K ( who has not become any less mad with age.....does anyone from Omagh remember him picking up the D(WRAC).. a fearsome bossy female Brigadier...in a Sioux helicopter dressed as a WRAC Corporal, skirt above the knees and all? I don't think the D(WRAC) will have! ). The farmland is home to lots of horses and cattle. Riding is done in a very English way with fox-hunting popular ( and no fear of it being banned there ), point-to-points, Hunt Balls, 'hunting' deer ( stalking ), trail riding, fishing and lots of other 'country' activities. There is a multiplicity of wildlife. An extraordinary variety of creatures live there; lots black bears in the woods ( they were kipping at this time of the year, thankfully ), raccoons, white-tailed deer, vultures, buzzards, eagles of the bald-headed variety, skunks ( which were mainly apparent as 'road-kill') , snakes of great variety and venomosity and, rather tediously, things called Stink Bugs. These pesky critters are about the size of bluebottles, have a somewhat ugly prehistoric look and fly sluggishly and infest houses. If you squash them they give off a rather curious smell. They cling to the folds of curtains and get on clothes, everywhere, and are, apparently, immune to any form of pesticide ( a fortune to be made here perhaps?). Maybe I will bring some back to UK to show you!! There are bound to be some in my bag.
Above: K. Does anyone recognise this guy?
Pics below of K and his missus' farm and general area to give you a general impression.
The houses in the area are predominantly of the 'clapboard' wooden variety ( pronounced 'clabberd' ). See pic to left. They are very pretty and, obviously, robust because the weather in winter can be severe: snow and ice and wind, and in summer blazing hot. We are at 39 deg N, same as Lisbon, Portugal. The villages and towns are picturesque and clean, with housing well spaced out. It is this very aspect of 'space' and lack of crowding and traffic which is so pleasant and, indeed, impressive. And the number of churches! Each village, it seems, has at least 3 if not more churches. Flint Hill ( pop 300 ) has 4. There is always 1 Baptist ( White ), 1 Baptist ( Black ) and 1 or 2 others, maybe Pentecostal or some other whacky religion ( ever heard of the 'Holy Rollers'? ). It should be remembered that Virginia ( as opposed to West Virginia ) was, and if truth be known still is, one of the leading Confederate ( secessionist ) states in the Civil War. The first battles were fought around there. Gen Robert E Lee lived near Washington ( Arlington ). Whether you like it or not there is still a noticeable 'segregation' of black and white, especially in the country areas, but of a totally voluntary nature on both sides. They live, play and worship happily apart. The blacks are affectionately referred to as 'boons'. It is extraordinary, from what little I have yet seen, that the Unionist/Confederate divide is still very much there, under the surface.
Left: Typical architecture, but this place, called 'The Inn' is a very plush and expensive restaurant in a nearby town.The village had a great 'Pub', called the Griffin Tavern which struggled to emulate a British establishment. It sold Boddingtons. K and I went there one evening to join in their equivalent of a Pub Quiz. I joined a team of 4 locals and, believe it or not, we won! $15 each and maybe a mention in the Rappahannock Times. I think I knew the answer to one question. It was 'King George VI'. I would have shown a photo of the place but it was out of focus.
I was taken to a nearby site of one of the Civil War battles, indeed the first; at Manassas in July 1861. It was a resounding victory for the 'Rebs' ( Confederates ). The Unionists thought it was going to be a push-over and families even went along to spectate. They thought it would be the beginning and the end of the 'uprising'. It was where Gen Jackson gained the monica 'Stonewall'. History records that one of the Confederate Officers shouted to weary dispirited troops " Rally behind Jackson, there he stands like a stonewall". It is thought, in reality, something somewhat more robust was said.
Left: Statue of 'Stonewall' Jackson at Manassas. The guide told us ( we were the only 2 tourists there ) that a lot of artistic licence was used here. Gen Jackson was a lanky rather scruffily dressed character riding, badly, a 13.2 hh pony. He has been 'beefed up' for posterity.
I visited several towns in the area and they were all pleasant and the locals unfailingly charming, helpful and embarrassingly polite. Culpeper was notable, as was Front Royal, where we went to check on trains at their rail-station. You don't get them ( or the staff ) like it in UK. Again, I expect this is a function of space and lack of crowds.
Left: Culpeper station ticket office.
For those with an equestrian interest, I have a couple of photos ( below ) of the local pt-to-pt course. Sadly there was not a meeting on while I was around. There are many such attractive courses with races over timber, hurdles ( lowish brush fences ), flat and pony races. The format and 'social scene' is very similar to the British set up ie. lots of car-boot picnics and people 'tripping over bloody molehills'.
All splendidly amateur and fun.
Local course. Just to give an idea of the 'empty' layout ( a good galloping 1.5 mile circuit ) and an example of one of their timber fences ( 6 per mile ). Not too high but totally unforgiving! ( no wings ). I'm told other courses have 5 barred ones, and more ambulances.
Another interesting aspect of daily life: The Gunshop. They are as common as 'Macdonalds'. This one, inside of which the photo below shows, was in a lay-by near a highway and completely isolated. It sold everything from shotguns, to .50 cal. sniper rifles via pistols, automatic rifles and virtually any weapon you could think of. Unreal. There was a big emphasis placed on 'home defence', and instruction manuals and 'family' courses advertised. I asked if he sold tanks. Apparently not. ( no demand, probably due to increased price of 'gas' ). Anyone can carry a weapon, provided it is not hidden. That's naughty.
Above: K putting in his weekly order for ammo.
This system seems to result in remarkably few home burglaries, but a surprisingly high number of pub
fights with AK47s. It would not go well down at The Grapes! ( you there Barbara?)
.The small horse, left, is an American 'Quarter Horse', down on K's farm. They have a pleasant nature and move very fast over very short distances. A bit like me, really.
The couple, right, are Amish. This lot are based mainly in Pennsylvania but there are quite a few in Virginia. Originally from Germany or maybe Holland, they are a 'Menonite' religious sect who live a rather 'fundamental' life-style but have good skills in woodwork, building sheds and leather ( saddlery ) and , by the look of it, false beards. You do not see many of them in the Griffin Tavern, or Las Vegas for that matter. The other 'grouping' which travel around the area are the 'Hispanics'. "Arriba arriba!! Pow Pow, dance Gringo". They are the guys who do all the casual labour and are much employed in that way. Apart from a very good lunch in a 'Pancho Villa' diner, I did not see any Hispanics. I was treated to several 'shots' of Tequila, but I don't think it will catch on at the Morpeth Pt-to-Pt.
OK, now off to Washington for a semi-conducted tour before catching the 'wriggley tin' train down South to Columbia, South Carolina ( 10.5 hrs ). Onwards and downwards...... more to follow....
PS I seem to have screwed up on these vids! There's one at top and bottom and I can't get rid of them! Grin and bear it. I suspect they won't work anyway.
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