4th - 11th Jan 2012
Day 5. Jodhpur. The Blue City.
The mighty Mehrangarh, the 'muscular' fort that towers over the Blue City of Jodhpur is a sight to behold. A Rathore leader called Rao Jodha established this fort and town in 1459, hence Jodhpur. The area surrounding it was called Marwar ( the land of death ) due to it's harsh topography and climate i.e. lots of rocks and bugger all water.
We had another relatively civilised start to the day, but before visiting this magnificent fort we were obliged to view the opulent memorial to the chap who was credited with being the best Maharaja of Jodhpur of all time, and who had sorted the place out in the 19th century ( for the benefit of ex-15/19 Hussars, one can imagine the locals' comment, after a few pints, at any social 'jurgah', "Whay, Sor, yor the best Maharaja wuv ivvor had!").
He was called Jaswant Singh. He died in 1895, and this plaque inside the ostentatious white marble memorial explains what he did. He was clearly much admired and respected by his subjects. I don't suspect that the public will ever give quite so much credit to the bunch of self-serving politicians at the helm today in New Delhi.
We then went on to the fort and were straight-away whisked up in a lift to the top. It is a long way up. Very sensible because the tour was all downhill from thereon in. Left: The battlements on a top deck. This place is still in the hands of the Jodhpur royal family, but they moved some time ago into a small place in town ( to be shown later ).
Right: A view to the north from the top. If you click on to enlarge you might see the many blue houses which give the city it's name. These originally belonged to the Brahmin priests and hierarchy and were painted in 'Brahmin blue' supposedly to protect them from attack. Nobody would dare attack a Brahmin household. Of course, many others cottoned onto this and also painted their houses blue. It is also reputed that the blue colour repels mosquitos. Who knows.
Left: There were again several seriously opulent and dramatically carved and designed exteriors. These incredibly intricate carvings in the stonework gave the impression that they were made of wood; but no it is all sandstone.
Right: This is another mirrored and bejewelled interior within the old royal quarters in the fort. The light, powered by candles in old days, was reflected and amplified by lots of mirrors. I'll try not to bore you, or myself, with too many more of these photos of grossly OTT interior and exterior designs, but they feature on a grand scale in all the old palaces.
Left: This elegant gentleman was the formidable 'guard' to the royal quarters. After a few hours on the 'hubble-bubble' I suggest he would not have been at the peak of alertness. He was obviously well paid because no effort was made to extract 'tips' from the passers-by. Perhaps he was far from caring.
We passed a turban tying demo. The officials on parade around here all wear the Jodhpur coloured turban of predominantly yellow with red and green. The length of cloth used to make a turban is, I think, about 9 metres ( 20 ft ) long. These two, doing the demo, made winding it on look simple. I suspect that if you or I tried it would end up in a bird's nest tangle with your legs tied together.
Amongst lots of other things, the fort museum has the World's Best collection of palanquins and howdahs ( elephant flight-decks ). This howdah ( left ) is one of many examples and maybe not the most elaborate. I wondered where was the control column, and what were the duties of the co-pilot in the rear seat? Do they have check-lists and 'memory items' for elephant failures. It was not explained. Maybe someone out there will enlighten us all.
Right: This is a palanquin for a Maharani. Four carriers at each end. She was not allowed to be seen. I can think of only a few 'maharanis' who should be subjected to this restriction nowadays. Sadly, they are not. Some would require many more than eight carriers.
Left: And this was the Maharaja's version. He was expected to be on full display. I expect there were cocktail cabinets and other 'facilities' on board these luxurious platforms. Four at each end again. They may have provided extension poles for more engines if the need arose. Interesting to know what the drill was in the event of a 'carrier' malfunction or failure.
Land at the first available opportunity, presumably.
Right: A display of some very evil looking stabbing instruments. Their purpose and application was described in full gory detail. There were loads of other weapons and bits of armourment on display. In fact there was lots to look at and we were navigated, gradually downstairs, before reaching, as half expected, a SHOP, which provided another 'shopping opportunity' for items pertaining to the Jodhpur clan and well-being.
Left: Not sure who this colourful flautist is. It just made a decent photo and he wasn't looking for a hand-out. It was taken on our way to visit the present discrete little home of the Maharaja of Jodhpur.
......which is this place ( right ) called Umaid Bhawan Palace. It was built by the previous Maharaja, Umaid Singh, a much respected ruler before he died in 1947. It took 15 years to build and was completed in 1944. No mortar was used in it's construction. Umaid Singh was an Air Vice Marshall in the RAF, and went on to become an Air Marshall in the Indian Air Force. The palace incorporates a sort of museum which depicts it's construction as well as a large display of the Maharaja's polo playing trophies, kit and photos. He was an 8 goal handicap player; the top.
His son, Gaj Sing ( known as Bapji ) still lives in part of the the palace. The rest is now a very upmarket hotel. There is also a garage in the grounds which displays the present Maharaja's collection of vintage cars. Several Rolls-Royces, Cadillacs, Buicks and a model T Ford feature. These Maharajas still thrive and are seemingly much appreciated by the local community.
After this it was time for a late lunch, preceded by yet more garlands and red splodges, at yet another posh hotel nearby.
Then, would you believe, a further 'shopping opportunity' at a local 'handcrafts' shop. I did another runner, and yet again there was nowhere to run to! I stayed away nevertheless and found myself in some dirty backstreets where locals were hammering away at rocks and metalwork in the dusty streets; no doubt supplying the smart and expensive handicraft shops with their products.
Left: There were more animals here picking their way through the garbage on the street side. Pigs, this time, which made a change from the normal filthy cows and scabby yellow dogs.
Then back to the PoW for an early departure at 1530hrs towards the next day's start point at Bharatpur on the eastern edge of Rajasthan. So we had tea ( caffee, biscuits and cookies) on board, then a bit of rest before drinks and dinner. Today was John's birthday. His other half, Barrie, had bought him a Jodhpur turban as a present. This was dutifully wound professionally about his head by the imperturbable Rajesh, and John wore it for the rest of the evening. Birthday cake and much ribaldry followed at dinner. I think he looks quite dignified wearing it.
Tomorrow is due to kick off at the impossibly early time of 0515hrs for a bird-watching trip at the Ghana Lake near Bharatpur. After the no-tiger safari of a few mornings ago, and the fact that watching birds in the cold damp dawn without the opportunity to shoot at them does not appeal to me, I took an early decision to have a good lie in.
Day 5. Jodhpur. The Blue City.
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| Mehrangarh |
We had another relatively civilised start to the day, but before visiting this magnificent fort we were obliged to view the opulent memorial to the chap who was credited with being the best Maharaja of Jodhpur of all time, and who had sorted the place out in the 19th century ( for the benefit of ex-15/19 Hussars, one can imagine the locals' comment, after a few pints, at any social 'jurgah', "Whay, Sor, yor the best Maharaja wuv ivvor had!").
He was called Jaswant Singh. He died in 1895, and this plaque inside the ostentatious white marble memorial explains what he did. He was clearly much admired and respected by his subjects. I don't suspect that the public will ever give quite so much credit to the bunch of self-serving politicians at the helm today in New Delhi.
We then went on to the fort and were straight-away whisked up in a lift to the top. It is a long way up. Very sensible because the tour was all downhill from thereon in. Left: The battlements on a top deck. This place is still in the hands of the Jodhpur royal family, but they moved some time ago into a small place in town ( to be shown later ).
Right: A view to the north from the top. If you click on to enlarge you might see the many blue houses which give the city it's name. These originally belonged to the Brahmin priests and hierarchy and were painted in 'Brahmin blue' supposedly to protect them from attack. Nobody would dare attack a Brahmin household. Of course, many others cottoned onto this and also painted their houses blue. It is also reputed that the blue colour repels mosquitos. Who knows.
Left: There were again several seriously opulent and dramatically carved and designed exteriors. These incredibly intricate carvings in the stonework gave the impression that they were made of wood; but no it is all sandstone.
Right: This is another mirrored and bejewelled interior within the old royal quarters in the fort. The light, powered by candles in old days, was reflected and amplified by lots of mirrors. I'll try not to bore you, or myself, with too many more of these photos of grossly OTT interior and exterior designs, but they feature on a grand scale in all the old palaces.
Left: This elegant gentleman was the formidable 'guard' to the royal quarters. After a few hours on the 'hubble-bubble' I suggest he would not have been at the peak of alertness. He was obviously well paid because no effort was made to extract 'tips' from the passers-by. Perhaps he was far from caring.
We passed a turban tying demo. The officials on parade around here all wear the Jodhpur coloured turban of predominantly yellow with red and green. The length of cloth used to make a turban is, I think, about 9 metres ( 20 ft ) long. These two, doing the demo, made winding it on look simple. I suspect that if you or I tried it would end up in a bird's nest tangle with your legs tied together.
Amongst lots of other things, the fort museum has the World's Best collection of palanquins and howdahs ( elephant flight-decks ). This howdah ( left ) is one of many examples and maybe not the most elaborate. I wondered where was the control column, and what were the duties of the co-pilot in the rear seat? Do they have check-lists and 'memory items' for elephant failures. It was not explained. Maybe someone out there will enlighten us all.
Right: This is a palanquin for a Maharani. Four carriers at each end. She was not allowed to be seen. I can think of only a few 'maharanis' who should be subjected to this restriction nowadays. Sadly, they are not. Some would require many more than eight carriers.
Left: And this was the Maharaja's version. He was expected to be on full display. I expect there were cocktail cabinets and other 'facilities' on board these luxurious platforms. Four at each end again. They may have provided extension poles for more engines if the need arose. Interesting to know what the drill was in the event of a 'carrier' malfunction or failure.
Land at the first available opportunity, presumably.
Right: A display of some very evil looking stabbing instruments. Their purpose and application was described in full gory detail. There were loads of other weapons and bits of armourment on display. In fact there was lots to look at and we were navigated, gradually downstairs, before reaching, as half expected, a SHOP, which provided another 'shopping opportunity' for items pertaining to the Jodhpur clan and well-being.
Left: Not sure who this colourful flautist is. It just made a decent photo and he wasn't looking for a hand-out. It was taken on our way to visit the present discrete little home of the Maharaja of Jodhpur.
......which is this place ( right ) called Umaid Bhawan Palace. It was built by the previous Maharaja, Umaid Singh, a much respected ruler before he died in 1947. It took 15 years to build and was completed in 1944. No mortar was used in it's construction. Umaid Singh was an Air Vice Marshall in the RAF, and went on to become an Air Marshall in the Indian Air Force. The palace incorporates a sort of museum which depicts it's construction as well as a large display of the Maharaja's polo playing trophies, kit and photos. He was an 8 goal handicap player; the top.
His son, Gaj Sing ( known as Bapji ) still lives in part of the the palace. The rest is now a very upmarket hotel. There is also a garage in the grounds which displays the present Maharaja's collection of vintage cars. Several Rolls-Royces, Cadillacs, Buicks and a model T Ford feature. These Maharajas still thrive and are seemingly much appreciated by the local community.
After this it was time for a late lunch, preceded by yet more garlands and red splodges, at yet another posh hotel nearby.
Then, would you believe, a further 'shopping opportunity' at a local 'handcrafts' shop. I did another runner, and yet again there was nowhere to run to! I stayed away nevertheless and found myself in some dirty backstreets where locals were hammering away at rocks and metalwork in the dusty streets; no doubt supplying the smart and expensive handicraft shops with their products.
Left: There were more animals here picking their way through the garbage on the street side. Pigs, this time, which made a change from the normal filthy cows and scabby yellow dogs.
Then back to the PoW for an early departure at 1530hrs towards the next day's start point at Bharatpur on the eastern edge of Rajasthan. So we had tea ( caffee, biscuits and cookies) on board, then a bit of rest before drinks and dinner. Today was John's birthday. His other half, Barrie, had bought him a Jodhpur turban as a present. This was dutifully wound professionally about his head by the imperturbable Rajesh, and John wore it for the rest of the evening. Birthday cake and much ribaldry followed at dinner. I think he looks quite dignified wearing it.
Tomorrow is due to kick off at the impossibly early time of 0515hrs for a bird-watching trip at the Ghana Lake near Bharatpur. After the no-tiger safari of a few mornings ago, and the fact that watching birds in the cold damp dawn without the opportunity to shoot at them does not appeal to me, I took an early decision to have a good lie in.
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| ..and the same to you, sir. |
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